(urban instrumental)
- Welcome along to this week's Ask GCN Anything.
Together, Si and I will be answering a lot
of questions you've been sending in over the last week.
And don't forget, if you've got questions yourself
that you would like to ask us,
leave them in the comments section below this video
or on social media, using the hashtag #TorqueBack
- Yeah, some of the very best questions
actually deserve far longer than we can give it
in Ask GCN Anything, so keep sending them in
because actually, they sometimes give us ideas
for future videos.
- Yeah, they do.
Well, let's crack on with the first question.
It comes in from Bob Mallet.
He says,"Should I proactively change my inner tubes,
"or wait until I have a problem?
"They were changed when I last replaced my tyres."
- Well, to the best of our knowledge,
there is no reason why you would need to change
an inner tube before you punctured it,
I think.
Although the rubber would eventually perish,
actually I don't think it would happen that quickly,
and from personal experience,
I'm actually using a pair of inner tubes on my town bike,
my pub bike that are, I would estimate,
35 years old.
- You aren't even 35 years old.
How do you know they're 35 years old?
- The inner tubes older than me.
The bike was my granddaddy-in-law's bike
and the inner tubes are the same ones that he bought
in the first place
and get this, right.
I did get a puncture.
And I was so mortified at the idea
that I would have to replace a 35-year old inner tube.
I actually fixed it with a patch and some glue.
And it's still going.
- Thirty-five year old inner tubes
that are in better condition than you
by the sound of it.
(chuckles)
Well, I think Bob should count himself lucky
that he's being so lucky really,
unlike this next person.
- Yeah that's true.
- Morgan O'Kennedy,
he wrote in to say #talkback
"I'm sick and tired of punctures.
" What is the best gear or tips
" to never, never, ever get another puncture again?"
Well, unfortunately, it's very difficult to prevent
punctures completely.
I think probably the only way to do that
is to have some solid tyres.
I've never ridden some.
(cross talk)
But from what we've heard,
they don't ride particularly well compared to
conventional tyres and inner tubes.
I tried a few tricks when I was riding full time.
The first being some tyre liners,
little rubber inserts that go between the inner tube
and the tyre.
They worked fantastically well.
Didn't get a puncture for the entire British winter
which is quite something.
I also tried using tubular ties,
quite narrow ones, 21 or 19 millimetres,
inside some larger clincher wheels.
- Really?
- Yeah and that worked really well as well.
Both of those gonna add weight,
and rolling weight, as well.
- I bet it made your bike feel like rubbish.
- Yeah, so you're gonna have more rolling resistance.
They are going to be slower,
but if you don't want punctures,
that's not a bad idea.
- That is a good chat.
We've got some more tips actually
in this video that is currently playing behind us.
So give that a watch and, at the end of it,
hopefully you will be as puncture resistant
as you possibly can.
Although possibly the best tip is to actually...
Pink t-shirt, I know.
It was a risky day, that one.
But yeah, the best thing to do
is to actually be really good at changing inner tubes
because then, if you do get punctures,
it's not the end of the world.
Don't lift your arms up.
Don't lift your arms up.
Often, you'll find sharp edges
and they'll rub up against where the tube is.
So make sure it's completely smooth and if in doubt,
just get a file and just take the edges off.
Smooth.
Okay, next up we've got a question from
Sam Fuller.
He's asked, how should he train for his first cycling race
of 23 miles on a pancake flat course.
- We'll it does slightly depend on the
nature of the course, I guess.
If it's 23 miles but done on a circuit
on multiple laps with lots of corners,
it's gonna be more like a criterium
and in that instance, you're going to need
to be capable of doing multiple accelerations per lap.
So you need to be good at sprinting.
However, if it's on a fairly straightforward course,
with very few corners and one 23-mile loop,
you're going to want to be a lot better at
just maintaining a very high speed on flat road.
- Yeah, there is nothing like being specific
in your training, is there?
So if you want to get faster riding on flat road,
then you really should be riding fast
on flat roads, I would've thought.
- Yeah and most of us have got flat roads near us,
unlike the mountains for example,
which a lot of people have to travel a long way to,
or even go overseas.
Anyway, a few years ago,
we did actually do a video which gives some
training suggestions in terms of actual sessions,
to get better on flat roads
and it's coming up for you right now.
- Dan, what does stochastic mean?
- Just like up and down variable spiking.
- Okay, cheers for that.
- Fast, flat group riding is best improved
by riding fast on the flat, in a group.
Yes, we know our stuff here on GCN.
Seriously though, riding an old-fashioned chain gang
or a fast bunch ride, is one of the best ways
to improve your ability to ride at high speed
on flat roads.
- It's time for the rapid fire round now.
We'll kick off with this one from Hugues Bonin.
Which @gcntweet presenter currently has the best
power to weight ratio?
Well, it doesn't get much more rapid than that,
it's a very easy answer.
- Trade secret, mate.
We can't--
- It's Si.
He's still a very fit lad.
- I've managed to keep my hand in.
And I do quite like smashing it to be fair.
Alright, next up,
we've got this one from Chris Deacon
who's asked, or said rather,
"I seem to produce higher FTP test result on
"on my road bike than my TT.
"What can I do to rectify this?"
Well first of all,
I suppose you've got to say that actually,
most riders will have a lower FTP,
functional threshold power,
on their TT bikes compared to their road bikes
because the positions are not necessarily
the most efficient positions.
Certainly, probably spend a lot of time
on their time trail bikes to try and get used to it,
but also, I don't know about you Dan,
but I remember a time a few years back,
when actually, people started doing more wind tunnel testing
and you saw pro positions come up a little bit,
so they could generate more power
and actually trade it off a little bit.
So maybe have a rethink about your position.
Can you put your handlebars a little bit higher
and then recruit your normal riding muscles
a little bit more.
- Yeah, so I say it's a bit of a trade off really.
You might find that your power's low
but you're still going a lot faster
due to the position.
And as ever, just spend time training in that position.
You should see the descrepanSi between the two
start to come down slowly.
BlubbelyGum, what a great name.
"Where do you guys fill up water on a ride?
"Cafes, pubs, houses, etc?"
- You stop in pubs a lot, don't you mate?
- Yeah, they do some cracking water selections
in pubs, I find.
I have once actually stopped at somebody's house
because I couldn't find anywhere else.
I was that desperate for some water.
I said please, can you just fill my bottle up
with some tap water.
Another suggestion that I got many years ago
from a pro called Russ Downing
when I was in France,
was graveyards, because they've got water taps
for people to water the flowers.
Just make sure it's drinkable water.
- That's a pro tip and a half, that one.
Alright this next one from Al Francis,
why do road bike rear wheels
have more spokes than the front wheels.
Well, the simple answer is
they do different jobs.
Although, front wheel just is all about steering
and keeping you upright,
the back wheel obviously has to transfer power,
and so because of that,
therefore it helps to have more spokes
so it can handle that kind of torsion
coming off the hub and transferring
all your power to the tyre ultimately.
- Yeah we need a lot of spokes.
Because otherwise when
Si and I do our sprints, we just rip the cassette off
through the spokes, you know.
Twelve hundred watts right there.
Andrew Lord, "Why don't you wear cycling gloves?"
That's a question we get asked quite a lot actually.
We do wear cycling gloves in the winter,
purely to keep our hands warmer.
But we do tend to just ride with bare hands
in the summer.
I guess it's a...
I think we've been cycling bikes a long time.
Our hands are comfortable on the bars
and probably a slight overconfidence
that we're not going to come off
and take the skin off the palms of our hands
when we're out training.
- Yeah, I always used to race in gloves.
Because then, you never quite know
whether someone else is gonna fall off in front of you
and I think I'd probably be inclined to do that
on group rides now, if I wasn't sure about the standard.
But yeah, touch wood and I don't...
I can't bring myself to say it.
- Yeah, if i head out of a ride with Matt,
I tend to put mitts on.
(chuckles)
Next up, Victor Spindel.
"Dedicated Sicling winter boots vs overshoes.
"Which is better?"
- Well, I've never had the luxury
of trying dedicated winter boots.
- No me neither.
I've always wanted to try them though.
- I've heard very, very good things
but overshoes are not bad.
My only little pro tip here is try layering your overshoes
to have a thin pad and then a thicker pad
or a thicker pad and a thin pad on top of it.
They do slightly different jobs, so maybe one waterproof,
one thermal.
- I'd definitely like to try it though,
because of course, it's hard to put massive
insulated socks on underneath your shoes
if they're already quite snug.
And you can cut the circulation off to your feet anyway,
which makes things even worse.
But I would like to try some.
- Or ride off road.
How often do you trash over shoes
when you get them out and biking?
Like, within one ride.
So yeah, definitely winter boots.
- First question was quite rapid.
Since then, we've been going on a bit.
But we've come up to the last one now.
Danny Nitro.
"Having a debate with my cycling friend.
Bib shorts under or over the base layer?"
This should be quick.
- Yeah, bib shorts have to go over the top
of your base layer.
One hundred percent.
No arguments, no questions.
That's a definitive absolute.
- I was just going to say over.
Okay, next up we have this question in
from Charles on Twitter.
"Sometimes, it's hard to fit in a ride
due to travel and weather, etc.
Can I substitute running for intervals
or a zone one/zone two ride?
- Well I'm not up on the science with this,
but I would imagine it's got to be better doing a run
than doing nothing at all.
It's obviously gonna be using different muscles
or at least the same muscles in a different fashion.
But there are different benefits to running.
I've been doing some myself recently.
I have found that it has helped my on-the-bike fitness
when I've not had time to do much riding.
But it also can do things like increasing your bone density.
And actually something that cyclists do get
is a reduced bone density because there's no impact
of course to cycling.
- Yeah, proceed with a little bit of caution though,
when you start running because if you're fit on a bike,
you'll probably be far more capable of running
than actually your muscles,
so you may find that you either can't walk for a week
or, in fact, worse than that, you get a long-term injury.
- I've had both.
- Yeah, build up gradually.
One thing, Dan, that I learned the other day actually
was that, not just running, but also swimming,
is potentially really good for cycling
and it was a video, that Matt with Richie Port
who lifted the lid on his training secret,
which is, as you can see, swimming.
Yeah and that is intriguing
because of course Rich is a full-time rider.
He still does it.
(ambient music)
What I'm particularly fascinated, Richie,
in relation to exactly what you do in the pool.
Now, I know that you trained in the pool as well as
riding altitude before last year's Tour De France.
So what sort of sessions were you doing
and what time of day were you doing them?
How did you weave it in and around your training?
- Yeah, I mean, to be fair,
in the season, I use it more as a recovery
after an easy ride or whatever.
I'll go to the pool
and do a little bit more on the kickboard
or something like that.
But in the off season,
it's a lot different.
I actually go out and do a good four-kilometer session
of swimming.
- Next up, we've got this question
from Pionel Tapinessi who has asked,
"Who is GCN can wheelie the longest?"
- Well, probably Si, this should've gone in the
rapid fire round.
Very simple answer.
Me.
- Yeah, no arguments there.
- Now, I've put this question in because,
although I don't like to show off,
I thought it was a good excuse
to show this next video.
- It was a good excuse to show off, you mean.
- Yeah it was.
I actually taught the Don,
Neil Donoghue from GNB, on how to wheelie a road bike.
He picked it up in no time,
mainly due to my instructions, I think.
That video's coming up for you right now.
Any of you who have watched our sister
mountain bike channel GMBN,
may have seen the video where they taught me
how to jump, rather successfully I might add.
(uptempo rock music)
Well, today the ball is on the other foot.
I'm going to attempt to teach Neil Donoghue,
the Don, how to wheelie.
That lad doesn't pay for his tyre.
Our final question for this week comes in
from Philip Ross.
"Do you guys have any tips on how to pace climbs
"that you've never ridden before
"with a powermeter and without?"
- Very good question, there.
Well, first of all,
the pace you ride at, depends entirely on the
length of the climb.
Isn't it?
So paced for a 30-second climb,
it's gonna be very different to a 30-minute climb.
So I guess the first tip is to do a bit of research
and actually look to see what the length
and the gradient of the climbs
that you might be riding up that day.
I'll say a quick Google search will tell you
or Strava of course.
And then from the link and the gradient,
you should be able to get a pretty good idea
of how long it's gonna take you
and then if you've got a powermeter,
if you've been running it for some time,
you will have a very good idea about how long
you can sustain a certain power for.
From that, you get your pace.
- On the other hand,
if you are doing it on feel,
for a 30-second climb like Si talked about earlier,
you can't pretty much sprint from the bottom
and try to hold on,
but once you get over, around about four minutes,
what we always suggest is that the first 30
to maybe even 50 percent of the climb
should feel reasonably comfortable,
and that goes up to one-hour climbs as well.
If you're really struggling in that first
quarter of the climb,
it's gonna be a painful, old ride
to get to the summit, isn't it?
Once you've got past 30, 40, 50 % of the climb,
you can have a really good idea in your head
of how much you've got left in the tank.
And from that point onwards,
you can kinda almost feel free
to push as hard as you want to the top.
- Now, experience of course does play a factor in this.
But as I seemingly proved in this video behind us,
that experience also doesn't count for anything
if you still ride like an idiot,
as I did when we were out in Majorca.
So this video actually shows the difference between
pacing and not pacing up a long climb.
And yes, it really hurt.
(urban instruental)
We're passed halfway onto the steepest bit
I'm trying to nudge up the power
to about 400.
So, it's gonna start to really hurt.
(urban instrumental)
- Well that's it for this week's Ask GCN Anything.
Make sure you do keep leaving your questions down below.
If you are yet to subscribe to the channel,
you can do so for free by clicking on the globe
and then you can look at the next two videos.
In the bottom left hand side of your screen,
you can see a very skilled cyclist.
- Which side's that mate?
- It's just down over here. - Oh alright.
- Peter Sagan
Matt put his skills to the test a couple of years ago
at the Vuelta a España.
See how good he really is.
- Yeah indeed, or if you wanna see how to buy
a secondhand bike,
and make sure you haven't got a complete turkey,
then click just down there, bottom right.
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