Nastya: Hello friends! This is Heads and Tails Reloaded! Evsei is a noob,
but he won the gold card in the last three cities. I do not like that. Thank God, there are no coins in Mongolia.
Evsei: What?
Nastya: They only use bills. I will toss this banknote because of my seniority. I wanna be sure.
This fella wearing a ship on his head will be heads.
Evsei: Heads. That's me.
Nastya: Two horsies will be tails. That's me. Go ahead and say it.
Evsei: Heads!
Nastya: Tails.
Hello Mongolia.
Damn it!
Evsei: Look here. This is a backpack.
Nastya: Make yourself scarce. Beat it!
Evsei: Get ready to meet your new Genghis Khan Mongolia!
There is a land where you will not find cities or people for hundreds of miles.
There is only an endless steppe there. Scorched deserts, wild camels and mysterious gorges.
A forest of glass skyscrapers sits right in the middle of it all! The name of this world wonder is Mongolia!
Chinggis Khaan Airport is the only international airport in Mongolia.
I do not need to fly just yet, but let me break my $100. I have 226,200 tugriks in my hand.
Regina only got 175,000 the last time around. I think I just scored!
I will begin traveling Mongolia from the capital city of Ulaanbaatar.
The taxis are very expensive for me of course. Thus, I am heading to the bus stop.
It is ten minutes away on foot, but the fare for the ride is only sixteen cents.
I have grandiose plans for the weekend and they do not involve Ulaanbaatar.
I will spend the next two days in the largest desert in Asia – Gobi. There are endless dunes,
wild camels, nomads' yurts and mysterious gorges. This adventure will be unforgettable.
Mongolia is a huge country. Its area is twice as large as Ukraine's. Getting around on a car is pointless.
Therefore, let us hop on a plane and head to the desert.
We have been in the air for 30 minutes and I still have not seen any towns or villages.
Forget villages. They do not even have roads here.
Mongolia is an endless steppe that stretches all the way into the horizon. There are no cities here.
The distance between small towns is usually hundreds of kilometers.
I just thought of something. It did not matter which country I was flying over,
there were always uneven patches of fields on the ground. There is none of that in Mongolia. Very weird.
Mongols are nomads. They never cultivated the land. There wasn't any plowing or sowing going on.
Moreover, they consider digging dirt a bad omen. There are not any fields or vegetable gardens here.
How much to the center city? Can I pay cash? No?
That is an odd system. He did not take cash and told me to get off and go get something.
Do you speak English or Russian? No?
Do you speak English? Russian? I have cash. I need ticket to the bus.
A bus pass. This is card? And deposit? Four hundred on top of that? You will give it to me. Oh, okay.
Here is a tip, make sure you bring a phrasebook. Their English level is even more treacherous than mine is.
Locals barely understand Russian too.
I used to be able to pay for a trip from Point A to Point B and go.
Nowadays you have to buy a card that is non-refundable and put money on it.
You see the red Gobi Desert twenty minutes later into the flight. Gobi is the largest desert in Asia.
It spreads over one third of Mongolia's territory. The question is whether Gobi Desert is located in Mongolia
or vice versa. Gobi means "a place with no water". Nothing but lifeless sand dunes and dry riverbeds.
A term rain shadow applies when a tall mountain barrier, like Himalayans in this particular case,
restricts the rainclouds from reaching a certain area. No rainfall means no life.
Regina Todorenko saw the beginning of Ulaanbaatar's resurgence four years ago.
It is impressive how much it grew since then.
I did not expect Ulaanbaatar to be this awesome. I expected to see fields and steppe.
Yet there are skyscrapers on top of skyscrapers here!
Where did they get the money you ask?
It was not that long ago that Mongols found out that they are sitting on a giant moneybag.
Their land contains the largest deposits of coal, copper and gold. Ulaanbaatar is trying to be trendy these days.
Here you are. Free Wi-Fi in the downtown area. Isn't it nice?
There are smoking cabins such as this one located everywhere around Ulaanbaatar.
They try to isolate smokers but it hardly works. At least the authorities are trying.
All Mongols used to ride horses. These days it seems as if everyone here is driving a Prius.
Have a look for yourself. It eats so little and dashes so fast! The import duty tax is also tiny.
Toyota Prius is truly a folk automobile in Mongolia. There is nothing but Priuses on the road.
Mongolian people have changed as well. They dress like people in any other major city.
Only provincial tourists wear traditional clothes.
We landed at the town with a gentle name Dalanzadgad after an hour-and-a-half flight.
We are in Dalanzadgad? I hope I said it right.
You need a true steppe monster to survive these mountainous roads.
Reliable and powerful like a Swiss watch. That is why I will ride on "A Loaf"!
Before you laugh, that car will not let you down in Gobi Desert.
I know that the wires are sticking out and that it is as comfortable as a barn, but it has tall clearance,
four-wheel drive and a unique gearbox.
This thing strives in places where cool modern S.U.V.'s disgrace themselves.
Shall we chief?
Take it easy driver dude!
I am sorry Sasha!
I cannot get up.
Dear viewers! I suggest you begin your Gobi Desert adventure by finding the bottle courtesy
of Heads and Tails. Find the nearest road next to Gurvan Saikhan Airport,
turn right and walk for another 410 meters. Look for Reloaded treasure in these bushes. Best of luck!
It is time to see local landmarks after enjoying the glimmer of the skyscrapers for a while.
You can count them on the fingers of one hand in Ulaanbaatar – the main square,
a couple of monuments dedicated to remarkable Mongols, The Beatles Monument, The World Peace Bell,
Khan's former residence and loads of museums. There are a couple of interesting shticks in Ulaanbaatar.
There are three million people living in Mongolia. Half of them live in Ulaanbaatar.
They do not have addresses as we do. Their whole area is divided in squares.
Then these squares are divided into smaller ones. All the way until they become pixels on a GPS.
Here is how a professional describes it – a universal address system that can provide location
parameters of any tree in three dimensions. The smaller the code – the lesser the object.
This is how a smart girl breaks it down. Here is an address of Ulaanbaatar
and here is an address of this particular square.
Unless you have not noticed, there are no cats in Mongolia. They did not need grain.
Hence, they did not need protection from rodents.
Perhaps this is the reason Mongolian yoke was so dangerous.
They did not have fluffy kitties waking them up in the morning.
Gobi hides many interesting places, but the distance between them is huge.
This is not a Disneyland that you could cover on foot in a half of a day.
I will have to spend the entire weekend on the road. Say goodbye to my tailbone.
Gobi is a desert, but there are flowers everywhere. I love it! Can you pull over next to that hill there?
We came to Gobi at a remarkable time. It does not look like a desert at all.
The rainclouds only reach here a few times each year, but they pour plenty of rain.
The desert becomes alive and turns into a giant field of blooming ramsons.
I am incredibly lucky! This used to be lifeless sand. I came here right after the rainfall.
Would you look at that majesty!
The green cover will dry up in a few weeks. Only clay and rocks will remain.
The capital of Mongolia is reloading at an accelerated rate!
Pretty soon you would be hard-pressed to find anything traditional here. One theater still holds down the fort.
The ticket costs $10. Something that I can afford in Ulaanbaatar.
Howdy.
Tourists get to see the 2,000 years of Mongolian culture.
Songs of the newlyweds,
shaman dances,
religious rituals
and Biyelgee traditional dance.
The Hooliin throat singing is the headliner though.
It sounds like strings mixed with a sound of U.F.O. and a wolf howl. All in one.
Hard to believe that a human can produce these hums!
Mongols used Hooliin to express their fascination with nature for over a thousand years! It works!
You can envision the windy Mongolian steppe as soon as you close your eyes.
Dude! You are best of the best! How you do it? I don't know.
Singer: Inhale. Squeezing your throat...
No?
Not it?
Oh well. I am good at other things. Thank you.
Come Olezha!
The fact that they have hotels for rich people in the middle of Gobi Desert might shock you.
There are no likes of Sheraton of Hilton here. Traditional style lodges is what it is in.
We are going to Three Camel Lodge.
I will have a deluxe yurt instead of a deluxe suite this time around. The most expensive one here.
Chingis Khan Yurt!
Genghis Khan is not a name in case you did not know. It is a title. Something like a King of all kings.
The man's actual name was Temujin.
Wow!
You gotta be kidding me.
I am sure the real Genghis Khan did not live this good. On the other hand, everything here looks very traditional.
It is a real yurt. It does have windows.
A shower! A stone shower cabin in the middle of a desert.
They also have towels, robes and shampoo just like a real hotel! A toilet.
This is like a living room. There is so much space. They connected three yurts together.
You can walk right through.
A nomad does not have the luxury of windows, couches, shower and toilet. Yet this is a five-star yurt for the rich!
A pimped-out yurt if you will.
It is about time I found a place to lay my head as well.
Regina had to face the fact that there were not any hostels available. Now they are everywhere.
I definitely appreciate that change. I chose a new hostel in the center of Ulaanbaatar.
Family room – $40. A room for a couple – $30. Bunkbed – $15. Bunkbed without a window – $10.
That is what I will get for sure. It is not as if I have not seen the windows before.
The hostel is very clean and decent looking. Community kitchen, laundry room, showers
– a perfect option for $10.
As they would say in my second native tongue – so…
I just paid ten bucks to sleep in the corridor.
They set up these shacks in the middle of a corridor to make more money.
I could not tell you whether those are shower cabins or closets. Just a partition wall like that.
Some of the bunks are not double. Those are triple bunks. Show them Olezha.
You know where I am going. Straight to the top. Let me put dibs on it before someone else comes through here.
My lodge offers a terrific option.
They can set up a breakfast table for you anywhere in the desert for a couple of hundred dollars.
My camping site offers this great service. The glorious Gobi Desert sunset with dinner and wine.
They also put on a musical performance to entertain a rich tourist.
The musicians are playing the two-string traditional instruments – morin khuur.
One string has to be made from a male horse's tail. The other one from female's tail.
They symbolize the harmony of masculine and feminine sides in music.
I am in the middle of a largest desert in Asia.
Two virtuoso musicians are playing music for me as I am eating dinner and enjoying the sunset.
Damn it.
Bummer.
Easy now!
This is way more than five stars.
I would greet you with a good morning if it were any good.
I thought I got myself the sweetest spot when I picked the top bunk. I was proven wrong.
The walls of my VIP room only reach the second level. I can see the construction.
I can hear where everyone is going. Bathroom, shower and back to actual rooms that prevent this…
good morning… background noise.
Stingy people end up paying double as they say.
I had to wake up at the crack of dawn to see all of the landmarks in Gobi.
That feels awkward!
Some people get breakfast in bed. If you only have $100, you have to find your own food.
I decided to eat breakfast at the market.
Naran Tuul Hudaldaany Tov. Heads and Tails have been here already. Regina was here,
but Nastya Dangerous wasn't. Follow me.
This is the largest and most famous market in Mongolia. It employs around 15,000 people!
I feel like I made a leap to the past. This is so 90's!
The market is divided into four major sectors. One area sells Chinese mass-produced goods.
The second one features yurt items.
Shaman stuff in the third area.
I need the fourth sector where they serve food. There is a food court at the market that sells traditional dishes.
Cashier: One huushuur, one khuitsaa and one compote?
Nastya: Right.
You pay at this register and then get your food at the next window.
You better make way for me!
Let us begin with a fat, deep-fried huushuur with meat.
Come on. Whom am I kidding?
Huushuur is a deep-fried pie with meat. Just like our burek. Only it is round. A burek is a burek everywhere.
Tasty, fatty, oily with plenty of spices. Just like home!
I cannot resist tasting some khuitsaa. It does sound like our famous cuss word,
but it is the most common soup here. Kinda like our borscht. Looks hearty. Khuitsaa is a very fatty soup.
The half of portion is lamb meat, cutlet, carrots and potatoes. The other half is a chunk of broadtail lamb fat.
There are two types of dishes in Mongolia – a huge piece of meat
or a huge piece of meat with something on top. Mongols think that vegetarians have their screws loose.
A very hearty soup. It does not taste like anything really.
I definitely tasted lamb and a hint of cilantro perhaps. It is decent. The best part is that it is cheap and very filling.
That is some khuitsaa, I tell ya.
The sand is the first thing that comes to mind when you think about desert.
Gobi is different because the sand only covers 3% of it, but that is exactly where I went.
Nice. Now we ride.
This mountain foothill looks as if someone dumped a huge truck full of sand in the middle of the green lawn.
The sandy mountains that reach 200 meters. Rich tourists love sliding down those slopes on a snowboard.
This place is called the Singing Sands. They call it that because when the wind moves the sand
particles it sounds like you are near a beehive. This vibration feels weird too.
I am kinda worried because I have no idea what to expect from the sand. This is one serious hill.
I am ready.
It was so worth it! My aching back after riding in that clunker, an hour-long ascend and hellish heat.
The feeling is highly unusual.
This is nothing like snowboarding, but you should definitely try it.
Especially when you do not have slopes to ride in the summer.
After walking around Ulaanbaatar for a day, you realize that globalization is beginning to seize it.
It will look like any other metropolis soon enough.
13th Century National Park was created for those who are looking for some local flavor.
Here you can see how Genghis Khan lived.
You can only buy tickets in Ulaanbaatar at this address.
All right. The pass. The train station. The bus.
Let us roll!
It is chilly here.
The bus only takes you to this sign. From here, you would have to walk for another 20 kilometers.
Therefore, be sure to tell the clerk at the office that you request a motorcycle pickup.
I will begin walking towards him. Perhaps he is waiting for me around the corner.
Nastya: To the village? Yes?
I thought that you would not come.
I can sit down?
What a ride!
I like $100 because it allows me to do authentic things! This is steppe! I have no clue where I am.
Mongolia! Riding this clunker towards an adventure!
While we consider desert empty and lifeless, Mongols see Gobi as a thoroughfare.
Hello.
Mongols are one of the very few peoples that still live a nomad lifestyle.
I came to a nomad settlement that does not have an address.
Meet community leader Erden. He spent all of his life traveling across Gobi Desert.
The first thing that I asked him was why do Mongols still live on the move?
Erden: First of all, cattle always has a new pasture.
Second, you do not have to worry about land and real estate. You can live wherever you want.
Our capital city Ulaanbaatar stopped moving only about 200 years ago.
Evsei: You are always far from civilization. There is no cellular coverage here, no internet.
Erden: We have everything. Satellite dishes, cellphones, TV and radio. We use solar panels to power them.
Also, there is always a village in a 60 kilometer radius should something bad happen.
Erden says that each community keeps a household. He has camels for example.
Large Bactrians with two humps on their backs. These are the largest a
nd the most resilient animals in Gobi Desert. Consider yourself lucky if you see wild camels
because there are only about a thousand of them left here.
You can ride domesticated camels. Why are you so huge? What do you mean? It is so gigantic!
I thought they were a bit larger than horses. Feels like I am riding a giraffe. Not that I have been on a giraffe.
A camel is a desert version of a superhero. He has thick fur to withstand freezing temperatures of -50C.
Calloused feet to walk on the scorching hot sand and rocks. Their superpower is the ability to survive
without food or water for a couple of weeks.
If someone ever told you that their humps contain water they were wrong. They contain layers of fat.
The humps shrink during the hungry times. They are cool to touch.
When they get near the water, they can drink over a hundred liters at once!
Why am I saying it?
Does he like it?
Easy. Easy.
Thank you. Bye.
I will miss you. No spitting! Easy now.
I can already see the village gates friends! Fully equipped mounted guards greet tourists at the gates.
We made it! Hooray!
Well, welcome to the past Anastasia Vyacheslavovna.
13th Century National Park is an open-air museum.
They used this vast territory to recreate a real Genghis Khan base camp.
Large and small yurts.
A school.
Shaman camp.
Pastures and meadows.
Let us see what they got.
This place features authentic Mongol entertainment. You can shoot arrows with a bow.
Admire the scent of fresh manure.
You can also ride a horse. Let's go.
Go straight ahead!
You can also skip that if the horse is not in the mood.
I can watch a sheep milking a cow.
A woman milking a cow.
You can also milk a cow yourself.
The udder reminds me of a human finger without bones and fingernails.
Here you can check out a shaman camp.
All of the shaman rituals are happening around this tree.
The 365 sharp spikes point outwards and send the energy from rituals all over the world.
You can visit an ancient Mongol school.
A calligrapher can write anything you want in old Mongolian language for you to keep as a memento.
This is how the name Nastya looks like.
Guess what this says. Heads and Tails of course.
I think it looks beautiful.
According to the legend, Genghis Khan ordered the clan members to come up with a way of writing down words.
Then he combined the variants that he liked and ended up with this elaborate result.
You can also play a prediction game called Shagai. This is like Chinese fortune cookies.
Each side of the bone signifies an animal. A goat, a ram, a steed and a camel.
They toss them and predict future depending on the combination. My picture is quite simple.
I got two goats, one ram. Almost like in my real life.
And one steed. That means I will succeed.
Cannot argue with that.
Gobi has plenty of remarkably gorgeous places. Yolyn Am gorge is one of them.
Nomads say that a Mongol without a horse is like a bird without wings.
This is a transport fit for a khan.
Mongols conquered the world on the backs of these tiny horses a thousand years ago.
I will ride it to conquer the gorge.
This used to be a single rock until an earthquake split it in half.
There is a stunning waterfall hiding somewhere out there.
A waterfall in the desert! Imagine that! I absolutely must see it.
That's it. It will not go any further. I guess horses do not like the cliffs.
I will have to leave it here and continue on foot.
Let me continue by myself. I need to finish this.
I have a camera.
It is recording. I will be back soon.
I have no idea how to get down from here. Looks like there is no way back.
There is one thing I can say for certain – if you want to understand and feel the true flavor of Mongolia
be sure to travel outside of Ulaanbaatar. Come here. There will not be any clowns, gimmicks or fountains
waiting for you here, but you will gain so much more. You find calmness and inner peace.
At the very least, you will be able to enjoy this glorious splendor.
I do not know how I descended. It probably looked terrible. Look at this gorge!
I have never seen anything like this in my life.
The gorge splits in two pathways here. I have no clue where to go. I will just go there.
I already walked and ran for a couple of kilometers and did not meet a single soul. This is a bit frightening.
I keep thinking that I reached the famous waterfall at the end of the gorge before each turn,
but I keep on seeing this picture.
I found it! Here is the waterfall. I do not know if you can see anything.
I only see the beginning of it and hear the sounds.
It must look pretty during the daytime, but I cannot apprehend anything right now.
You need to come here in the morning with a guide if you want to see this waterfall.
You cannot see anything in the dark and it is very scary. I think I should begin looking for a way back.
Where do I go? Let me try to trace my steps backwards. So slippery.
I completely lost the track of time.Where am I? I will try to stick close to the river.
This looks completely unfamiliar.
Dear diary, I have been in the dark for about an hour and a half. I am walking around with a flashlight,
looking for familiar rocks.
I think I am lost. Sorry guys, but I do not think I can make it in time to the airport.
I might stay in Gobi Desert for good.
Wait a minute! I stepped in that poop at the very beginning of the trail. Four familiar pieces in a row.
Okay. All right!
Sanya!
Sanya can you hear me? Dear God! That is him! Climbing up is not an option, so I will take my shoes off
and try to walk through the creek. I do not care if I will have sneakers if I make it to the other side alive.
Down goes the second one. Crap! It fell in the creek. Dear Lord! This water is freezing!
Sanya! Here I come! There is my second one.
Well guys, this concludes my diary. I am saved. See you in the airport. Hopefully.
Everything is good in Mongolia. It is affordable.
I just paid ten bucks to sleep in the corridor.
It is filling.
That is some khuitsaa!
It is colorful.
Tourists did not spoil Mongolia. Therefore, everyone will be able to find a terra incognita of their own.
This is an awkward feeling!
A visit to Mongolia is not a matter of two days because of the light-year distances.
Two weeks is more like it. Welcome to the Singing Sands.
Get to packing. The descendants of Genghis Khan are waiting for you.
I like that a lot.
Well, this is it. Thank you. It was awesome.
Where is he?
I am beginning to worry, because Evsei's phone is off and I have been standing here for at least 30 minutes.
Evsei: What is with the reception? Hello? Hello?
Nastya: Well mates, I guess I have to say goodbye by myself.
My phone is ringing. Hello? Hello?
Evsei: Listen! I got lost!
Nastya: Where are you?
Evsei: I got lost. Hello? Hello?
Nastya: Where in the world are you? I have been…
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