Hey guys!
Today I will show you how to make such a wonderful plant as wisteria.
We need the following.
Stucco material.
You may choose any colors you like.
Also we need a roller, blades, scissors and a scalpel.
I'm gonna use a wire
(plus I use lilac nylon thread for jewelry making)
and tools to work with them.
Of course I need ball tools, Blade & Shell double ended sugarcraft modelling tool,
dots tool and rubber shaper.
To specify the texture I will use these veiners -
acrylic and silicone ones,
and I will also use a piece of silicone pad.
For coloring we'll need a dry pastel, but you can also use eyeshadows.
Prepare a floral tape of a such color.
Or any other one, if you gonna hide the stalk under the stucco material.
In the description to this video, I'll leave a link to the wisteria leaf template.
Also there will be a template of its petals, just in case if you need them.
So, if you are ready, let's get started.
And start with the manufacture of flowers and buds.
I'm starting with the sailing petal.
From a white material piece I cut off two equal parts.
I roll them into a balls.
And then I slightly lengthen them on one side.
I connect them together in this way, and flattening heart-shaped piece on the surface.
The more the billet is round, the more rounded and wide will be the petal.
The more elongated heart-shaped piece is, the longer and narrow the petal will be.
This feature is very useful in making petals of varying degrees of flowering.
As you can see, I continue to refine the petal with my fingers.
And then, I get the texture of the resulting petal with an acrylic veiner.
In this case, I use a slightly moistened Phalaenopsis veiner.
And then I give the textured petal edge a slight waviness with the small ball tool.
We need a slight waviness, a kind of frill.
And after, with a blade sugarcraft modelling tool
I'm making light printed break in the center of the petal with a pinching on the back side.
Be careful not to push too hard to not damage the petal.
I'm making a yellow color spot in center of the petal with pastel.
The upper sailing petal may be of any color you want -
I choose white for the more contrast of the whole plant.
Now let's make the center of the flower.
I will use a cold lilac color.
I roll the material into a flagella and from this flagella I cut three equal parts
and one part of a double size.
All the parts I roll into balls and put one small piece on a lilac nylon lanka
(so-called jewelry making nylon thread).
I'm using lanka, cause I want my flowers to tremble on a branch.
But if you want fixed flowers, then I recommend using a wire,
which later will be covered with a warm pale lilac color material.
So, I set one small piece on the tiny loop of the lanka and fix it well.
This is the base of the flower.
Next, I take the biggest ball and flatten it on the surface.
We'll wrap the base with this fragment to create the core of the flower.
I'm making the texture after flattening.
In this case, a two-sided texture is not necessary - on one side drawing will be enough.
And we wrap the base inside of this petal here in this way,
getting at the end some kind of shortened pod with a snub nose.
The basis also can be made simpler and later I will show how to do this.
In this case, I want to keep all the details of a natural flower.
Now let's put two identical sashes petals on the sides the central part.
I'm rolling out two remaining balls in short strips and make a texture for both of them.
Lightly moisten the veiner with water to avoid of sticking fragments.
I put the petals in this way: the petals lie at a slight angle with respect to the tip of a central part.
I connect the ends of the petals together.
If you wish, you can leave them opened, but I'll make them closed
according to the live wisteria flower, which I used as a sample.
And now we have such a central billet of a flower.
I attach a white sailing petal to lilac part and fasten their bases.
Wisteria has flowers of varying degrees of flowering.
I'll show you all varieties starting with the bud.
The lowest, non-blooming buds look like the lilac core of the flower that we did before.
By the way, here I show you the easiest way of making it.
We put a small fragment of the material on a piece of lanka and slightly extend it at the base.
Also we form a small tip at the end.
Then, I slightly bent this elongated drop via some small cylindrical object.
In this case I use the handle of the dots tool.
And after that, make the edge of the bud thinner by finger pinches and make a texture.
And the lowest non-blooming bud is ready.
Next in the process of flowering is a bud with side petals.
In this case, we apply a circular textured petal to the base that we did in the previous case.
We don't close petals: there must be an appearance that the bud begins to open.
The next blooming bud is with already formed sailing petal.
We prepare the lilac part in the same way as we did in previous case.
But this time add a narrow little white sailing petal and apply it this way.
In all cases, I tint the tip of the central lilac part
with a mixture of lilac and ultramarine pastel color
to make the color accent and give the flower more color variability.
Also I lightly touch with pastel along the edge of the sailing petal.
Absolutely for all the flower bunch fragments I make a perianth at the base.
I make it from a very light purple color, rolling the material into a very thin flagellum.
From this flagellum I cut off tiny fragments and rolled each fragment into a ball
and after, with a small ball tool, I make a deepening in the center.
Then I put this perianth on the wire and fix it at the base of the bud or flower.
If you want fixed flowers on bunch,
then hide the wire with fixed flowers and buds in material of the same light purple color.
All fragments of flowers are ready for baking.
But before we bake them, let's make the leaves to send them into oven together with the flowers.
I'm gonna make leaves of a light warm green material.
Roll out the material with a roller or paste machine into canvas, a thickness of about 1 - 2 mm.
And place on it all the leaflets fragments template.
I remind you that the link of this template is in the description below this video.
Use the scalpel to cut out all the fragments.
And then thin each part of the leaf on the surface and then
make an extra thin on the palm or silicone pad using a ball tool.
Now fix all the leaflets on the wire.
I cut off a small wire fragment, make a tiny loop at the end,
fix it in the center of the leaflets and hide it under the same green material.
At the bottom of the leaflets, I pull the material out a little bit,
forming the base of the leaf fragment.
And then I set the texture.
Don't make very deep texture, because the relief of the real wisteria leaf is almost imperceptible.
I'm toning with a red color along the edge of the leaflets to simulate youthful green leaf color.
The young wisteria foliage has a reddish tone, which distinguishes it from the already mature green foliage.
I'm coloring with a red tone both on one side and on the other.
So, we do this with all the fragments of the leaf.
And now we prebake all the leaflets fragments unlike the flowers, which we bake completely.
But if you gonna make flowers stems, which are covered with material, then the flowers should also prebaked.
After baking and cooling, we assemble the leaflets.
Therefore, we put each pair of leaflets together and apply it to the wire of the terminal leaflet in this way.
We twist all the wires together.
We screw the next pair in the same way, stepping back from the first pair
so that the leaflets don't overlap each other.
And so we collect the entire leaf.
The rachis of the leaf we hide under the same green material.
All joints and seams we smooth with a rubber shaper.
And then we tint the rachis in the same red tone.
Now we are baking the leaf completely.
After cooling, I cover the leaf with a semi-gloss varnish.
I cover both on one side and on the other and leave it to dry completely.
I prepare all the flowers, arranged them in sizes.
The largest flowers will be at the end of the cluster, buds and barely blossomed - in the beginning.
With a floral tape I begin to fasten all the flower fragments, starting with the buds.
Each element of the bunch, whether a bud or a flower, has a little foot of about 1 cm.
Therefore, remember this nuance while fastening the flowers.
If you don't get how to grab fragments with by tapes in the beginning,
you can watch my hint tutorial, where I show the way to solve this problem.
Just click on the letter i in the upper right corner of the screen.
So, I fastened the buds and now I begin to fasten the barely opened flowers.
Of course, in your case, you can use more buds, so you'll get a longer and more conical bunch.
In my case I reproduce wisteria, which is growing in my garden,
and it is more oblong and contains mostly flowers of medium blooming degree.
But I repeat that wisteria bunches are completely different
and the shape of every single bunch depends only on your desire:
you can make buds predominant, or flowers of average fullness,
or make a cluster entirely composed of flowers that have been dissolved.
Also on your desire is the density degree - you can make it more dense,
but also you can make it almost transparent by increasing the distance between the fragments of the bunch.
Meanwhile, I continue to assemble flowers, starting, as you can see,
from buds and continue to grow bunch of medium-sized flowers.
Then a larger size and in the end are full-bloomed flowers of large size.
In order not to increase the viewing time, I'll show the routine work in the fast motion mode.
And one more little nuance: all the flowers should be screwed in inverted position -
white sailing petals should be on top, and the lilac part of the flower should be located below.
But this is actual if you use lanka.
If you use a wire, which gonna be covered with a material later,
then the position of the flowers can always be corrected by bending in any time.
As you can see, thanks to lanka, all the flowers on the bunch are slightly bouncing and shaking.
This is effect that I was trying to achieve using lanka.
Now I bend the flower bunch into desired position,
or if you make inflorescences from several bunches,
so set a form and position of the wisteria bunch according to your own desire.
And in final I screw the leaf to the stem.
I won't cover the wisteria stem with material,
instead of this I will cover it with three layers of varnish.
But if you gonna hide the stem under material,
then first of all, the flowers must be PREbaked,
and second of all, cover the stem with material as the bunch fills its fragments.
But keep in mind that this technique provides much more massive and stem thickness to whole wisteria composition.
My aim is to make the bunch as gentle and thin as possible.
In addition, I recommend from the leaf and below to color with red or in a reddish-brown tone.
The bunch stem is usually light green.
And again, everything depends on your own wishes and purpose about a flower:
if it's a floral composition, then you will need a stem.
But if you do jewelry, then the question of the stem disappears by itself,
except for cases when the jewelry involves a certain liana.
And finally, as you can see, I cover the stem with three layers of varnish
and after drying the wisteria bunch is ready!
As you can see, even the most beginning handmade masters can do such a wisteria bunch.
I hope that you liked the tutorial and I hope that it will be useful to you.
That's all for now, see you in my next video, good crafts and have a nice day!
Bye-bye!
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