Fabrication of integrated PS4's controller (Second part)
Making a controller for housing in an integrated PS4(PS4U). It is the second part.
If you are not watching the first part, please watch it.
Yes. Last time I made around the operation panel.
I was not convinced by the tacky of around the grip. The movie ended there.
I want to do something, but after all I do not get a good idea.
There is no point in sticking to one problem for a long time, so let's proceed.
...so, I decided to leave around the stick once.
Switching feelings, relocating SHARE/OPTIONS buttons and headset jack.
Making this part
Two tact switches and a stereo jack(4pin) were soldered to the cut board.
...And, this is a self-made screw hole for fixing the board and the body.
How to make self-made screw hole.
Preparing an acrylic cylinder. It is sold at the DIY store.
Cutting it to an appropriate length ...
Bonding masking tape to the bottom.
A few drops of resin mixed powder and liquid...
In advance, a small amount of lubricated screws are inserted quickly.
Waitting for the resin to cure. It takes time because it does not touch the outside air.
After completion of curing, turn the screw and pull out. If it forgot to apply oil, it is hard to turn.
Then bond the self-made screw hole to the body.
The substrate could be fixed.
A transparent acrylic board which becomes a button is cut out. It has a button hole according to it.
Sorry for the out-of-focus blur.
This is an acrylic board with "Neck" in the center.
It is sandwiched between the body and the headset jack.
Putting a button on it.
"Neck" will tarnish, it will function like this.
...Yes. SHARE/OPTIONS buttons has been made. This ends the button surface once.
Then install a screw hole to fix the DS4 main unit and the top body.
Making a screw hole in the same way as above.
Screw hole in 5 places total.
Depending on how the button is pressed, the height of the screw hole is carefully adjusted.
Let's make side of the top body.
Making this part
First, determine the thickness of the body.
This line of L1R1 button.
Exchanging the Leutor bit for the diamond cutter.
This is expensive, but very useful.
Accuracy is not necessary now. Just cutting it.
Next is bottom. Headset Jack side panel is cut out.
The size is lazy. Later cutting and adjusting.
Jack's hole has been precisely adjusted. Now that is OK.
However...
Dimensions of the depth are determined by cutting this line.
The panel was bonded vertical to the button face. This "vertical" is not lazy.
Lazy part. High accuracy part. Learning that judgment is a way to progress.
Next, left and right sides. Docking rail guide with PS4U is necessary here.
First of all, 8 pieces of 1.5mm thick acrylic board were cut out.
Aluminum rods to serve as rails are prepared. The thickness of the aluminum rod is 3mm.
Acrylic boards are adhered to "U-shaped" so as to surround aluminum rods.
It is not hard. It is not loose. I am adjusting.
Polished with a Leutor and file...
It is the completion of the rail guide.
This incision is...
The alignment position of the rail guide.
Also determine the horizontal width according to the rail guide.
Cutting at the marked place.
The upper end makes it easier to put fingers on LR...
Cutting a little diagonally.
Panels on left and right sides.
It is bent by a soldering iron.
Adhesive left and right side · · ·
Cutting at the same height as the top.
The gaps of the panel are filled with resin. Be careful not to let the resin enter the rail guide.
Polished to prepare the surface...
The left and right side including the rail guide was made.
Next, arrange the mating surface with the bottom side body which does not exist yet.
From the marking of the cutting line, a little margin. can you see it?
"Rough surface by Leutor cutting" with this margin horizontally.
Rubbing on sandpaper.
...However, if it becomes accurate level with this, no one will suffer.
This method which is orthodox when manually leveling out...
Actually, it can not expect high accuracy.
Hand shake, internal stress, variation of friction points... The movement is very diagonal.
When expressed over, it looks like this.
For example, a frictional force applied to the front oblique with respect to the traveling direction...
It's just a car pitch movement.
That's not all.
Movement rubbing the edge by hand shake...
The horizontal is slack, the edge is round. Mechanical silhouette will be blurred.
What will happen then?
A handmade feeling appears.
When forming a face in this way, it must be careful with great care.
Therefore, the cutting surface of a new acrylic board cut off by the machine is precious. And...
I cut out the four sides around and save it for use.
This is when the handy cut surfaces are aligned.
This is when the machine cut surfaces are aligned. It is so different.
And the best new cut surface is...
Used for places where absolute accuracy can not be lost, such as seams bodies.
Seams are particularly noticeable. Especially when it becomes a large body.
There is a person who says PS4U "It seems to be a ready-made item."
I am pleased that I felt that such poverty-stricken efforts were successful.
...even so
Good...
So, this way. Processing to lazy will degrade accuracy. That.
Due to the procedural problem of making, it was impossible to use a new cut surface for this top face body. This method without any help.
··Yes. Next, the bottom body.
Making this part
Bottom body has light bar and USB with complicated structure...
...Well, what shall I do. At last the hand stopped.
The hand stopped, the sun had gone. The sun had gone by, but I am deeply thinking, so deeply...
What and where to put it. How about the procedure? How is it made?
The trigger for resumption was extraction of materials.
I decided to procure the mounter of light bar/USB unit and use it.
It would be difficult to model this...
Two acrylic boards are joined together so as to surround the extracted material.
DS4 remodeling machine Aiming at the world's thinnest, the extracted material is also being processed more compactly.
The lens cover of light bar.
The LED passes through the board.
The light bar reflector.
Temporarily assembling them...
Fitting it like this.
...With top side panel.
Since the LR button has a mechanical height, it is difficult to make it thinner any further.
...Then, next. I will continue making the side of the body.
Making this part
Here, luxuriously, using the machined surface of the example. If it can be used in the procedure of production it is done as such.
Temporarily fix 3 panels.
About horizontal with the side face of the top. That is exactly.
And its side faces are adhered to each other. Carefully not to adhere to the top body.
Adhesion is complete.
Tips is bent.
The resin is attached thickly to the joint between the panels...
Form with a Leutor and file.
The tip part bent is...
Naturally, high accuracy is not obtained by bending with a soldering iron.
Again over expression. Slightly, it is outward.
In that case, we can correct the accuracy of the bent portion by polishing it.
The tip part with such face aligned.
Next, cutting obliquely.
It is the same as the slope of this upper panel.
Carefully align the surface with the top surface body and fix it temporarily.
Adhesion is complete.
Forming an adhesive portion.
Next opening the light bar and the USB window.
Yes, it's opened.
Since the slopes of the panels are uneven, naturally, gaps are formed around this.
Shaping it to fill the gap. Adjustment in millimeters or less.
Track accuracy. That is really troublesome.
Hmm... like this.
This line becomes the total height of DS4B...
Just to be sure, the height of the side was also aligned.
A vibration motor is mounted in these spaces.
However, the other side of the feather is decorated. It becomes slightly unstable when mounted as it is.
So I made a lazy spacer. The invisible part is a tear-off work.
Processed by cutting 0.5mm thick PVC board.
While lightly adhering this to the motor with a little double-sided tape...
Apply rubber type adhesive on the front side. Resin adhesion to PVC is impossible.
Before the adhesive dries quickly it sticks to the body side.
When pulling out when the adhesive dries...
The small double-sided tape peels off, only the spacer is fixed to the body.
This is a way to complete alignment and adhesion in one go.
Method of fixing vibration motor. I made the stay and fixed the screw.
With this, the internal construction is almost done.
Let's go back to body production.
Making this part
Since the height of the periphery of the motor was also decided, we will narrow down the bottom body.
I cut it with this line.
This is an acrylic board to be the bottom plate. Cutting out to a larger size...
I will attach it to the side which its made earlier.
It is glued with too much resin.
Roughly scrape off the extra using a rutherf...
In addition, scraping with a file...
It was molded with sandpaper.
Material is not stable...
These projections seal motion.
If closed, it will be fixed like this.
A guide is provided to prevent the two bodies from shifting.
The final shape gradually became visible.
...I like this angle.
The side like a trapezoid is somewhat distinctive.
Next I will make screw holes to secure the two bodies together.
There are 4 screw holes in total.
I would like to reproduce the deep screw hole that is often seen in game controllers.
If do not do this, the finish like a product will be lost.
Acrylic cylinder cut obliquely...
Total 4 places. It is set vertical to the button face.
Enlarging the hole so that the screw passes.
Like this.
Cutting the acrylic cylinder to the same height as this surface.
Next, an acrylic board cut into a circle is prepared...
It adheres to the tip of the cylinder.
...And a hole is made so as to be the same as the diameter of the screw thread.
Looking from the front side like this.
Its deep... Do not you understand well with this?
Next is the top side body on the opposite side. This side is a scalpel screw.
A screw hole made by the example method. It is extended with an acrylic cylinder.
About the height of extension. It is necessary to adjust so that a slight gap is formed when the body is closed.
After adjusting, attach a lot of resin...
Before the resin dries, the body is closed and fixed exactly with tape.
This also performs alignment and adhesion at once.
It is completed when the resin cures.
There is one more gimmick to leave...
It is a switch that seals the vibration motor when PS4U and DS4B are integrated.
It is better not to vibrate during storage.
Making this part
Let's make a sealing switch for the vibration motor.
This is a waste material at the time of making Famicom Pocket of my mods. It is a shield board of the Game Boy.
It is thin and easy to process. Moreover, it is possible to solder. Such a shield board is useful.
Cutting out the contact point of the switch...
Combined with acrylic board, made it like this.
It usually conducts electricity.
When pressing the center switch...
The connection is cut off and electricity is not transmitted to the vibration motor.
This switch is fixed to the bottom body with claws and screws.
When integrated, this is pushed.
Also, I set a plate for scratch protection. It is in the groove provided on the bottom.
The plate is made of aluminum in this image, but it is finally changed to acrylic board.
Well, let's finish remaining wiring work...
The DS4B components are complete.
With this knowledge of the dimensions of the controller, it is finally possible to start making the PS4U body.
Various tests before that.
I will test wired communication and charging. It works properly.
Game play test on wireless.
Alright... All right! It certainly is working.
Although it seemed to be distressed many times during the production, ...it was able to achieve it.
After that, when PS4U main body is completed, I will make final molding together.
Currently, the sharp corner of the controller is stuck in my hand and it hurts! lol
He smiled innocently and said so, and then went back to the production room again to produce the PS4U body.
What is waiting for him there. It was far harder to make controller than before.
It is the days of despair wrapped up in sweat and dust and conflict. To endure, such as everyday to endure.
The date and time passed. Everyone has forgotten about him any more.
Still he came back.
But his appearance changed, the impression of that innocent smile had disappeared. And what lives in his heart...
Nmmmm-----!!
Crappy...! This molding is truly crappy.
Especially here!!
Does think that it will solve if digging all the grooves?
Bordering around the stick is effective! ...Baby knows that as well.
Use grip for 3DS! Why not utilize more ready-made items?
Hmm! ...Its got a little better. Stupid!!
Ouch...!
...brat! fought back me.
...Fought back on me with a sharp corner.
Giving an attack on me. ...not bad!
But that trifling attack made me angry. You will regret it in the afterlife.
Eat it...!
SHUN - GOKU - SAKU
The fool!!
You should have had it round like a cat from the beginning!
What?
Bored already...?
It's a setting called "Evil Kei" ...
Ah... Is not it fun? Alright.
..sorry.
Apparently, as I approached the end of editing, I tend to be desperate. Always keep in mind that before editing "I will try to edit seriously only this time"
Well, Let's go back to the real theme.
Rounding the corner by SHUN - GOKU - SAKU...no! It was molded with various files.
Like the part of the stick, the LR part of the poor texture was also bordered.
Finally small scratches and gaps. A part such as a small corner is carefully molded with resin and light curing putty.
About the work after this. That was said in a previous video of the main part.
Rinse off oil with neutral detergent...
Substrate painting.
Color painting.
Mat urethane painting.
And pasting label seal and plate.
Assemble in order...
DS4B is completed.
I tried shooting from various angles.
By the way ... There is a little supplement.
The only function that did not port to DS4B. It is the EXT terminal beside the headset jack.
Currently, it seems that the EXT terminal is used only for the charging station, so it has been omitted.
First of all, since the PS4U main unit also serves as a charging stand.
...Yes.
This time I mainly explained my work on acrylic board construction.
The invisible place is lazy. The visible place is nervous.
Allotment of such resources is a way to preserve my motivation over the long term.
Afterwards ... to go to the workbench even if disagreeable work. If skip over too much in most cases the project will be abandoned.
In short, what matters is not technology or knowledge. They are not necessary for such as cardboard craft.
If you do it several times, you get used to getting the point. It's true.
What is more important than that is the consent of the family and the feeling that will do it...
About such mental...
Eh?
What?
Ah. Is this?
This is DualShock4. Brand new.
Because I do not want to use DS4B. Because it made it with great care.
Corner will wear out if used. The stick also deteriorates.
...Yes. I'm sorry.
Finally, a recent report.
It is in the midst of buying the parts of MOD of the next work now. In this way, they arriving one after another.
Inside of this, the parts of the next and next work MOD are also mixed.
I feel troubled by the feelings just going ahead.
Other than that... After all, I bought an anniversary collection.
I pulled out arcade controller from my parents house...
...However, arcade controller for PS3 does not move perfectly.
Is this something I have to buy for PS 4 if I want to use arcade controller?
Is it appropriate to invest in additional to play this?
Every time I update the hardware I also update expensive arcade controller?
I am saddened by the public's "fighting game away", as I am, such a current situation is tough.
...That is why I am remodeling this for PS4 now.
There may not be much demand, but maybe the content of the next movie will be this.
However, arcade controller remodeling has a part suitable for the entrance of "modified hobby".
I myself used a soldering iron in places other than school classes, it was arcade controller remodeling. That is the beginning.
Certainly, I modified for Super Famicom for 3DO. After all I still wanted to play SSF2Turbo.
It is an old story for over 20 years.
I hope to create a video directed to those who wish to start such a "modified hobby".
Well then...
It got longer.
Thank you for viewing this time too.
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