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I liked my stay at Ena, but it was also the most isolated place on the Catalan Way.
There were no other pilgrims, there was no Wifi, and there was no bar,
not even a social club exclusively for members.
In a certain way it was the culmination of the solitude on this way,
luckily I will reach the Aragonese Way today and supposedly I will see other pilgrims at last.
With this hope I leave the albergue in the morning and I begin the last stage of the Catalan Way.
DO NOT BATHE! DRINKING WATER.
Obviously, pilgrims are supposed to have something toxic...
Another ford. Uh, oh!
Here the ford is not very deep, and water cannot enter the boots, so there is no problem.
During today's stage I will have to cross the Sierra de San Juan de la Peña, a very characteristic geological formation.
On the mountain I will pass the new monastery of San Juan de la Peña,
but first I have to climb up there.
At the moment the terrain is still quite flat,
but because of the ice one may see that it has been quite cold at night.
Ice.
In Botaya, where there is a private shelter according to the guide, I take a long break
and observe the work of the ants that are capable of carrying things
weighing much more than themselves.
Well, my backpack seems to weigh much more than usual,
although I no longer have provisions and I have to find a grocery store urgently.
It is a very beautiful way. This section is fantastic.
I love to walk through a forest.
The soil is very soft.
Plus, there is shade, it's not very hot,
and the birds sing all the time.
It's wonderful.
When I arrive at the new monastery of San Juan de la Peña it seems to me that it is closed,
but fortunately I can visit the interpretative center of the monastery even though it is a Monday today.
It is an interesting museum, and it is worth entering.
Well, at least I've been able to visit the interpretation centre
even though in fact you cannot see much of the ancient upper monastery.
The new monastery was built after a fire in the old monastery
that is undoubtedly the more spectacular monument, a building under a huge rock.
Thirteen years ago, on my first long Way of St. James, I visited it already.
It is not exactly located on the Aragonese Way,
but in Jaca I had met an Italian pilgrim who also wanted to see it.
At that time I was attracted to everything related to the Templar Knights, the Holy Grail, etc.
because since my first stay on the way in 1997 I was fascinated by everything that had to do
with the way and I had read a lot of books about the way in the previous seven years.
Well, this place still fascinates me a lot.
In the afternoon, the Royal Monastery of San Juan de la Peña only opens at 3 p.m.
I know that I will need a lot of time for the descent, because of my knees I have to go down slowly.
The Royal Monastery of San Juan de la Peña is one of the places on the Camino de Santiago related to the Holy Grail,
along with Leon and the chalice of Doña Urraca in the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro de Leon, and the chalice of O Cebreiro.
According to the legend, San Lorenzo, born in Huesca, brought a chalice from Rome to Aragon.
For a few hundred years the holy calix was kept at the Royal Monastery
before it was moved to the Cathedral of Valencia where it still is nowadays.
But San Juan de la Peña is more than the legend of the Holy Grail,
it is a magical place with a cloister with capitals and Romanesque sculptures of unparalleled beauty.
Of course I stay too long at the monastery, and I find it difficult to keep walking.
You can see that this way is not very popular.
The descent is hard, and it is getting later and later,
but some views are so beautiful that I can not avoid to stop there and to record them.
In Santa Cruz de la Seros, famous for the Romanesque church of Santa Maria, the store is closed.
I ask residents if there is another, but the answer is no, there isn't any other store.
I am already very tired, I am hungry and still far from Santa Cilia de Jaca, the end of today's stage,
but there is no remedy, I have to keep walking.
I hope the albergue at Santa Cilia is not full yet.
On this stage one has to bear in mind
that there are many stony descents.
It's a stage that costs many hours.
It is eight o'clock when I finally arrive at Santa Cilia.
There are no other pilgrims, I am the only one.
What a huge disappointment! At least the albergue is open.
Neither is there WiFi, but the hospitalera calls her cook so that I can have dinner at least.
Good thing I do not have to leave anymore because I am exhausted.
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