Hey guys welcome back to the Detail Garage.
Today as you can tell we've got a really cool car in the shop.
This is a 1987 Buck Grand National.
As many of you know this is a car that is featured in movies and video games and it's
something that me personally I'm really attached to and its a dream car.
I'm super excited to have the opportunity to work on it today.
But even though this car is super cool its not clean and the paint being black shows every imperfection.
Its got scratches its got a whole lot of swirls and water spots.
We're going to fix all that today starting with a waterless wash, we're going to clay
it and then we're going to polish it.
So lets get started.
Over here I've got my bucket set up.
Traditionally a lot of you guys want to see a foam bath on this which we could do but
this car has T-tops and we aren't entirely sure of the condition of the seals so we
don't want to cause any leakage.
After that we're going to clay it using the Clay Mitt and then we'll polish it using VSS.
To start off I've got my bucket here full of water.
I'll be using a Dirt Trap just like you'd use in a traditional wash to avoid bringing
extra dirt or contaminants into your wash water.
Place it in at an angle and let it settle at the bottom.
As it sits it'll get snug creating a seal at the bottom so no dirt gets back into your wash.
Also I've got my Rinse Free Wash.
For five gallons of water you'll only need to add about an ounce just like you'd do with
your traditional wash.
You only a little bit.
For areas like the top, where you still want to get it cleaned, I'm going to use a Professional Spray Bottle.
I've got thirty two ounces of water ready to go.
This funnel makes it a lot easier to fill instead of spilling and making a mess.
But what it's going to do is give me the opportunity to clean the top without heavily saturating
the top creating leakage between the seals.
Just so I have plenty of lubrication as I wash I'm going to add an ounce to the spray bottle.
This way I have the same cleaning power in the spray bottle as I do in the bucket.
So we'll get started with the bigger areas using a wash mitt.
This is the Three Way Wash Mitt.
It's really cool because it has these microfiber dreads on one side to get it foamy.
Also you can scrub with the back side.
And it has this mesh center piece for scrubbing dead bugs or tar and road grime.
So right now I'm letting my wash mitt soak and absorb the Rinse Free.
This way I'll have plenty of lubrication while I wash.
What you want to do is go on the car in straight lines this way you don't instill any new scratches or swirls.
And it picks up all the dirt without creating any scratches.
Whats really cool about this product is you can use it in your garage like we're doing today.
So as I mentioned earlier I set up my bottle with the Rinse Free as well so I have lubrication
to clean the top with creating suds that might seep through the seals.
All you have to do is spray it on like with EcoSmart or a quick detailer.
You can spray the mitt.
Same idea you want to wipe in one direction.
Taking care of any dirt, debris and bird droppings.
So I've just finished washing the vehicle using the Rinse Free and now it's time to dry.
I want something big that's going to trap a lot of water but still have enough power
to go across the whole vehicle without leaving any streaks or scratching the vehicle.
This is the Fatty Super Dryer.
It's a really large towel super plush and for all you Philly Flyers fans the black and
orange is a really nice combination.
Before I get started I'm going to rip off this tag this way I don't add any new scratches
to the vehicle.
It's a really large towel so if you drape it over the hood you can see it covers nicely
and it takes care of all that water.
You can always come back and buff off residue.
As I mentioned earlier this car has a lot of scratches and swirls so don't blame this
on me this is how it came.
As I mentioned earlier I'm going to clay this vehicle.
We just finished washing it and the surface is not terribly contaminated you can't really
hear or feel much contamination but I still want to get as much of it off as I can.
And after we washed it we could tell that the surface is a lot worse than we thought.
The scratches are deeper there's a lot of marring and there is etched water spots.
So it's going to take a lot to bring it back to life.
Before we get on that we're going to clay it.
Using a Clay Mitt is going to help me cover a lot of surface area without wasting a lot of time.
This car has a lot of flat panels which is good because there isn't much to conform to.
All you've got to do is basically wipe it back and forth with the Clay Mitt.
With the Clay Mitt you want to keep this really lubricated because it is synthetic where it
doesn't absorb the pollutants like a clay bar will.
But just like the Clay Block where you wipe off the surface and keep going it's the same
idea with the Clay Mitt.
So as I mentioned earlier the surface already has marring.
It looks like someone tried to clay this vehicle which is probably why it feels smooth
and isn't very contaminated.
But they used too heavy of a clay bar and that is what causes marring.
In case you don't know marring comes from using too heavy of a clay bar or something
abrasive was on the paint and it's smeared across the paint creating micro scratches.
That's why if you use a heavy clay bar it tends to scratch or mar and that's why on
this vehicle I'm using an Ultra Fine Clay Mitt.
Once you're doing claying the surface you'll want to take a clean microfiber towel and
buff off any of the excess luber and the dirt.
I'm using these soft plush Happy Ending Towels.
They're great because they are edgeless and this won't create any new scratches or swirls
and since they are super plush I have a barrier between the surface and my hand.
This way I don't put too much pressure on the paint causing scratches or marring.
So I've just finished wiping off the clayed area and the surface is really bad.
Chris get in here and look at all these scratches.
This is the original paint but it is really thrashed.
It has a lot of deep scratches in it, oxidation and the marring is really dulling out the finish.
By polishing we're hoping to bring the paint back.
I'm going to finish claying this car and I'll move on to the polishing steps.
So now that we've clayed the vehicle it's time to polish it.
This car has a lot of scratches and swirls, there's deep scratches, water spots and a
lot of marring.
So I'm going to grab my VSS and an orange pad.
This car is a perfect candidate for an all in polish to remove the scratches and swirls.
Before I get started I'm going to tape off a section to show you guys the difference
between a polished side and a non polished side.
You guys at home don't have to do this but it does look pretty cool when you can see
a 50/50 between a polished and non polished panel.
I'll be using VSS this is an all in one Scratch and Swirl Remover.
I'm using an orange pad because this car has some deeper scratches so I'll need some abrasiveness.
I'm using a 22D which has the biggest throw for a TORQ and it'll cover a lot of surface
area since this car is pretty flat.
In the 1980's they we were working with aerodynamics but it's a pretty edgey and flat vehicle.
So the 22D is going to help me accomplish that.
All you have to do is shake up the VSS to mix it all up.
Apply a few drops.
I'm only doing a section of the hood so I only need five drops.
I'm spraying it with Pad Conditioner to lubricate the pad this way it won't be a dry pad on
the surface creating friction.
Start off by blotching it out over the surface you're working on.
On speed setting one spread out the product.
If you haven't polished before the reason why we spread it out before polishing is to
prevent the pad from going dry as you polish.
Once you've spread it out it's time to start cutting and polishing so speed it up to speed
setting six and work the product in til it goes clear.
Once you're finished polishing take a clean microfiber towel and buff off
any excess compound or product.
I'll be using the Happy Ending Towel.
These are great for buffing off waxes, glazes, sealants and also polishes because they are
plush which traps a lot and also because they're edgeless you be installing new scratches or swirls.
Now this is the original paint and for being thirty years old it is in pretty good condition.
I don't want to go too much more aggressive on this car so I won't pull off all the clear coat.
This is about as good as it's going to get without going into a whole 100% paint correction.
For the owners needs this is actually really nice.
I'll pull off the tape and show you guys the difference between a polished side and a non polished side.
So I just finished polishing a spot on the hood and it made it a little bit better but
the paint on this car is actually really bad.
There's scratches and swirls and the paint is failing on the hood but the car is thirty
years old and that's just how it goes.
I'm going to do another tape line on this side.
It'll actually show you the scratches and swirls being removed.
So the same process I'll tape off a line.
And I'll polish one half and leave the other half unpolished to show you guys the difference
between the polished and non polished sides.
I'm still using a Happy Ending Towel I just grabbed a clean one.
This is purple but it's the same material just designated for different things but it
still works great for polishing or buffing off.
Holy cow!
It looks brand new compared to the other side.
Just a little bit of polishing really brought out that black luster.
It took care of those scratches and swirls.
I'm going to finish off the rest of this vehicle you guys just sit back and enjoy.
So I just finished polishing the hood and trunk now I'm working on the doors.
I'll do another tape line to show you guys the 50/50 between the polished side and non polished side.
Although the car looks really shiny the scratches are hiding underneath and you can't tell until
you get close.
We're going to polish it out and get that lustrous shine again.
Also it has this black rubber molding down the side I want to tape this off so I won't
get any compound on it or stain it.
This Grand National is polishing up really nicely.
The black has been brought back to life.
The VSS is taking care of all the scratches and swirls.
I want to show you guys the difference but on camera it's kind of hard to pick up.
The easiest way is to either take it outside or using a light like this one.
Shine it at the paint and look into the reflection of the bulb and you'll see how this side is
a nice and smooth black finish.
And this side you can see all the spiderwebs and hair line scratches and swirls.
So I just removed the tape and it's really obvious the difference between the sides.
Earlier I mentioned to look into the bulb of the light.
I didn't mean look directly into the bulb just to clear that up I don't want to hear
any comments about you're destroying your retinas just look at the reflection of the
bulb in your paint.
Well guys the Buick is all done.
We started off by Rinse Free washing it to take care of the light dust and debris.
Then we hit it with the Clay Mitt to take care of any embedded contaminants.
We finished it off by hitting it with VSS.
Now the VSS took care of most scratches and swirls some of the deeper ones are still there
but for a thirty year old car it's not going to get 100% correction out of a one step polish.
But it does look a whole lot better than it did when it came in this morning.
So if you like this video or this car be sure to give it a thumbs up.
Also stay tuned for our next installment where we bring the Grand National back into the
Detail Garage.
We're going to show you how to do an interior quick detail and we'll put some dressing on
the tires to make it really pop.
You got a nice car...you guys know the rest.
We'll see you next time thanks for watching!
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